Once in a while you come across an unexpected gem of a wine- at a recent tasting with new supplier Luca (Passione Vino) I was introduced to the Azienda Agricola Meroni which has re-defined my expectations of Valpolicella & Amarone wines.
From Luca, I got to hear about the Azienda’s history, philosophy & location- such was his passion in talking about this producer, I was curious about how this background information would translate into the wines. As a wine enthusiast, with time and practice, you come to acquire a substantial knowledge of grape varietals, tastes, perfumes, characteristics & notions about techniques used in the making of a particular wine. You learn to have expectations of a wine to have certain traits, to look, smell & taste in a certain way.
For wine enthusiasts, it is a challenge to find wines that defy & test these expectations, wines which dare to be different, to redefine a classic.
Meroni wines do just that- the proof is in the glass.
Gian Bohan
Agricola Meroni in Sant'Ambrogio della Valpolicella, Veneto
Azienda Agricola Meroni is located in one of the five production zones of Valpolicella, in Sant'Ambrogio about 15 Km from Verona. It is run by Carlo & his sister Katia.
After the 70's this area was called “Classica”, in order to distinguish the area from the larger but less nominated part of Valpolicella.
The Meroni Azienda extends to 15 hectares from which 7,5 hectares are cultivated in vine and the rest in olive-trees and berries. In a paper document of the Venician State Archives ,dated 1706, you can see the ancient head-quarters of the company were listed by the name of “Sengia” where as in the “Catasto Terreni Napoleonico” with the title of ”Arativo erborato vitato in colle”. Since 1935 Meroni has only used its own cultivated grapes which are grown on “Sengia and Maso” farms, situated in the Grola zone, considered as the best for Valpolicella production & the birth place of Recioto and Amarone wines.
The Azienda produces wines only from its own cultivated grapes & it is only one of the few Amarone producers who vinifies & ages their wines using the traditional methods. Corvina, Rondinella & Molinara are strictly the only grapes grown in their vineyards. Hand made harvest is a must, indigenous yeasts and natural temperature fermentation are ordinary procedures and long ageing follows in order to slowly let the wines release their finesse and elegance.
Meroni cultivate with love and dedication the high-quality grapes and keep the two wine lines under the names: “Sengia” the original name of the Azienda and “Velluto” a dedication from the famous dialectal veronese poet, Berto Barbaran who, enchanted by the wine, described it as “deep, delicate, noble taste of velvet” in a letter sent to Carlo's grandfather.
Sixty years on there is no better way of describing Meroni's wine.
On the Sengia and Maso estates at la Grola, the Meroni company obtains “Il Velluto” from Corvina Veronese, Rondinellaand Molinara autochthonal grapes. Valpolicella Classico Superiore has a 13-14.5% alcoholic strenght, a ruby red colour, an ethereal bouquet and a perfume of cherries, red currant jam, liquorice, tamarind and spices. It is warm fine & persistent to the palate with an almond end taste, a velvet texture of great body and roundness, elegant with everything at meals & with red meats, roasts and cheeses, wonderful to drink now but in continual evolution.
Grapes are rigorously handpicked at the beginning of October, dried naturally for 30 days, pressed in the second half of November, drawn from the vat in December, matured in Slavonian Oak barrels for 28 months before bottling and receiving a further year of maturation before release.
Velluto Amarone Classico DOC Meroni 1999
(30% Corvina, 20% Rondinella, 50% Molinara)
On the Maso estate, at la Grola, Meroni with Rondinella, Corvina & Molinara creates its Amarone Velluto, a unique wine in its origin, ancient varieties and production method. The grapes are handpicked at the beginning of October the left for 4-5 months to naturally dry. Maturation occurs in small wooden barrels, with a further year refinement in bottle. Ruby red in colour, with a delicate perfume of red mulberry jam, violets, liquorice, tamarind and spice, it is warm and majestic to the palate. A wine of great finesse and elegance with velvety tannins. It is ideal with red meats, game and mature cheeses. A wine which will surprise time and time again.
